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5.1  setup

The .1 is the amount of sub woofers
5.2 would be 5 speakers and 2 subs

NAD

7.1  setup - connected in this illustration  as 5.1.2

Denon
Onkyo

5.1.2  setup

9.1  setup
Also called 7.1.2

9.1  setup - connected in this illustration  as 5.1.4 This is the best setup for 9 channel dolby Atmos / DTS X receivers.

Denon

11.1  setup
Also called 7.1.4

Atmos
Marantz

11.1  setup
Also called 7.1.4

13.1  setup
Also called 9.1.4

Rotel

Speaker wire (GAUGE) explained

Pioneer

Dolby ATMOS explained

1080p (2k) vs 2160p 4k  explained

Video compression HEVC .265 vs 264  explained

LFE + MAIN Settings

In the Speaker Configuration menu, when the speaker channel is set to "Small" the Bass Setting or *Subwoofer Mode menu can be set to LFE or LFE + Main. This will pass all frequencies under the crossover point to the Subwoofer.

For example LFE 120hz - would send all frequencies UNDER 120 to the sub and from 120 up to the speakers.

If the speaker channel is set to "Large" you may want to set the Bass Setting or *Subwoofer Mode set to LFE + MAIN as this setting will duplicate the low frequencies to the Subwoofer. If you set the Bass Setting or *Subwoofer Mode to LFE nothing will output to the Subwoofer with the exception of the LFE from a Dolby or DTS encoded track.

LFE (Low Frequency Effect) - The discrete content sent to the subwoofer from a Dolby or DTS encoded audio track. (The .1 in a 5.1 or 7.1 audio track)

LFE + Main - The low frequencies output to the Subwoofer and speakers whether the speaker channels are set to Large or Small.

SO:  If you have a new speaker - lets say a center speaker and the speaker is rated at 60hz to 20khz then your center should be set to 60hz this way the amp will not send frequencies under 60hz to your center speaker. Only frequencies 60 to 20khz will be sent to the speaker.

If you have a full range large speaker - you would set the amp to FULL range or LFE as low as possible (probably 80hz)

B&W 800 series speakers - factory / assembly

Speaker placements.

 

There are a few ways to increase or decrease bass in your speakers.

 

  1. Placement from wall, the closer to a wall and even more so the corner of the walls will give more bass.

  2. Spikes on and off, spikes off will create more bass.

  3. Carpet in the room – carpet helps absorb reflections and thus increasing bass.

  4. Curtains also help with absorbing reflections; open glass windows are something you want to try and avoid.

  5.  Tile / Wood / carpet flooring – these all influence your sound.

  6. Amplifier settings – make sure bass output to BOTH (sub + main) or (LFE + main) is selected otherwise no low frequency bass will be output to the front speakers.

  7. Amplifier settings – When listening to music I always have the amp on PURE or DIRECT or STRAIGHT mode, this means the amplifier will automatically switch to whatever the signal it receives is. In other words, if the amp receives a stereo signal (music) it will only play in stereo, when it receives a DTS signal it will automatically switch to DTS etc..

  8. Make sure your speakers (FRONT) are set to large and full band on the amplifier when you are using floorstanders.

  9. If you have an active sub, then select all speakers to 80hz and let your sub do the low bass by selecting LFE (120hz).

Yamaha Avantage | AV Receivers | Yamaha Music

Yamaha Avantage | AV Receivers | Yamaha Music

Play Video

AMPLIFICATION TYPES EXPLAINED

 

What Is Class-D Amplification?

When the signal is instantaneously higher in level than the triangle wave, the output goes positive. When the signal is instantaneously lower in level than the triangle wave, the output goes negative. The result is a chain of pulses where the pulse width is proportional to the instantaneous signal level. Magically simple! We call it 'pulse width modulation', or PWM. And that's all there is to it. You now understand how a Class-D amplifier works, and if anyone tries to pull the wool over your eyes and convince you that the 'D' stands for 'digital', you can tell them how wrong they are, with confidence. Class-D is not digital.

A class A amplifier is a linear power amplifier that uses a single switching transistor to amplify high-frequency signals with minimal distortion. The transistor is always on, even when there's no input signal, which means it's constantly running at full power and generating heat. This results in low efficiency, usually around 25%, as 75% of the amplifier's power is converted to heat.

Class B amplifiers are those in which the output transistors only conduct during half (180 degrees) of the signal waveform. To amplify the entire signal, two transistors are used: one conducting for positive output signals and the other conducting for negative outputs.

A Class AB amplifier is a push-pull amplifier that combines the best features of Class A and Class B amplifiers:

  • Class A: Good signal reproduction, but less efficient

  • Class B: More efficient, but more distortion

  • Class AB amplifiers are considered a good compromise for amplifiers because music signals are often quiet enough to stay in the "class-A" region, where it is amplified with good fidelity. When the signal passes out of this region, it is large enough that the distortion products typical of class B are relatively small.

Class G amplification is a type of amplifier design that's a modification of other amplifier classes, typically Class AB or Class B, to make them more efficient and reduce power dissipation. Class G amplifiers are similar to Class AB amplifiers, but they use multiple supply voltages instead of just one. When the signal level is low, the amplifier uses a lower voltage, but as the signal level increases, it automatically switches to the appropriate voltage. This technique, called "rail switching", allows the amplifier to use the maximum supply voltage only when needed, which increases efficiency and reduces power consumption. 

Testing your setup:

1. Make sure you are using a NEW (latest) 4K/8K high speed HDMi cable connected from the Earc/Arc output on the Amplifier to the Arc/EARC input on the TV.

2. Make sure your amplifier speaker selection and setup is set to the design you chose.

Here are some links to YouTube on 5.1 demo Dolby Digital scenes and some files to download and play via your Streamer or PC.

NOTE: YouTube doe snot support 5.1 on PC or Mac, if you want to listen to this video in surround sound you need to follow the link on your TV/Streamer.

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